Mountain Acclimatization

MOUNTAIN ACCLIMATIZATION

For a successful trekking or climbing expedition, fast adaptation to altitude is the key. Exposure to high altitudes may result in chronic fatigue, which makes it very difficult or even impossible to climb. A good fitness is also important for achieving the objective, but it will unfortunately not help for adapting to altitude, since the body need time to adjust to the high altitude. There are two ways to adapt, to stay at a certain altitude for a few extra days (which is usually not possible with planned trekking programs) or acclimate beforehand. The basic principle of all acclimatization programs is to gradually expose the body to air with less oxygen, which encourages it to adapt. This basically means a more efficient intake and transport of oxygen in the body.

Altitude training allows you to start the acclimatization even before going to the mountains. This is especially useful for those who do not have time to acclimate on the location.

For basic acclimatization, an IHT, which is used as a system for testing the response to altitude and later for the acclimatization program to an altitutde of 6,500 m, is recommended. Altitude sleeping is recommend to climbers, serious trekkers and anyone going to extreme altitude. Start to use the program at least a month prior to your expedition or stay at an atitude.

HOW TO PREPARE

For mountaineers and trekkers we recommend all types of preliminary acclimatization. They are all very effective:

• Altitude Sleeping
• Altitude Exercise
• Intermittent Hypoxic Training / Therapy (IHT)

When purchasing an altitude system, an AMS test protocol is included, which you can perform before any ascent. Saturation value – saturation of blood with oxygen is the main indicator of the tendency towards AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness).

The degree of physical fitness, unfortunately, does not affect the response to high altitude, but therefore age and gender. Women are less likely to get AMS, and younger are more susceptible to AMS than older people – the risk decreases with age. After the protocol has been completed, you can estimate how you will respond to the altitude and begin early enough with the pre-acclimation program according to the attached protocol. Altitude training system simulates altitude up to 9000m.

ALTITUDE

The higher we go, the thinner is the air. The altitude in the context of the high mountains relates to an altitude above the sea between 2,500 meters (lower peaks) and 8,848m (the height of Mount Everest). We must be aware that climate and weather are also influenced by the situation, and that the conditions on a single peak can deviate significantly from the expected levels. For example, at the equator the air pressure is higher than on the poles, which also affects the dilution of the air. The alaska mountain Denali has a lower air pressure at the top than would be expected from its height and extreme cold, and is therefore potentially more dangerous than a much higher mountain near the equator.

REACTION TO ALTITUDE

At altitude, a lack of oxygen is a fundamental problem that affects the body. Higher we go, less oxygen is in the air. The lungs get less oxygen, so the body needs to do hard work to provide the required amount of oxygen.

Acclimatization in this context means a dedicated, temporary change in physiology to overcome the effects of high altitude. It’s much more than just breathing, but breathing problems are a basic problem. Adaptation to altitude is limited. Humans can not achieve permanent acclimatization over 5000 m, at this point body inevitably weakens. The best that can be achieved by highly trained climber / alpinist is short-term acclimatization at about 6500m.

Muscles have different oxygen demand depending on the load, but unexpectedly the brain needs an incredibly high amount of oxygen. Even though they represent only 2% of body weight they need about 15% of the oxygen we inhaled. In a case when the brain does not get the necessary amount of oxygen, this affects your judgment, movement and speech.